Wait! Keep reading - don't turn away just because I said the "A" word. Why is everyone so afraid of anchovies? Why do anchovy virgins cringe at the very sight of them? If I can convince just one reader to give these little fish a fair chance, I will have accomplished my good deed for the day.
Anchovies–and especially good anchovies–bestow a piquancy that you can't achieve any other way. It's an understated, salty, and complex taste that complements so many other flavors. Isn't that reason enough to at least them a whirl?
I'm going to share some tips about buying anchovies, so you have no excuse for not trying them. There are a few different kinds - in a jar, in a can, marinated and whole. Salted, whole anchovies are my top choice when cooking - but if this is your first experience, save the whole ones for another time. If you do buy them whole, soak them first to remove the salt, and carefully fillet the fish away the from the bone. Ever had fish sauce? It's also made with anchovies.
When buying them in a jar, look for those from Spain or Italy, and count on spending about $6 or $7 per jar. Although cheap, I'm not crazy about the Roland brand anchovies - they have the overpowering fishy taste that gave anchovies a bad name.
Here's the best way to get introduced to the unique world of anchovies. Take three fillets from the jar, and mash them up with a fork or knife. Then heat up some olive oil in a saute pan. Turn the heat to low, and add the anchovies. Using a wooden spoon, mash them up until they dissolve. And there you go - the beginning of an amazing clam sauce, puttanesca, sauteed spinach or this delicious string beans recipe.
Ingredients for Italian String Beans with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs
1 pound of string beans, washed
1 sweet onion, sliced thin
1 cup of homemade breadcrumbs (I made mine from a loaf of whole grain)
6 anchovy fillets
Extra-virgin olive oil
Prepare the breadcrumbs:
Preheat the oven to 300F. Toss some day-old bread in a food processor. Even better if it's whole grain, or from a local bakery. Spread the crumbs on a foiled baking dish, add salt, pepper, oregano and olive oil. Toss with your hands to coat, and bake for about 15 minutes, or until golden.
Start the beans:
Mash up four of the anchovy fillets with a fork. Heat up a large cast iron skillet, and add about 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Turn the heat to low, and throw in the anchovies. Flatten with a wooden spoon until they dissolve. Then, turn the heat up to medium and add the onions. Stir around until soft and translucent, about five minutes. Add the string beans, a few grinds of fresh black pepper, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the breadcrumbs and stir to coat. Cook for one more minute and turn off heat. Serve with a anchovy fillet draped on top.
Where I Shopped:
Blue Lake Green Beans: Monterey Market, Berkeley
Anchovies: The Spanish Table, Berkeley
Whole Wheat bread: La Farina Bakery, Oakland
